Truth about Facials Blog:
(Last update 1/2/20)
NEW: Understanding Hydrophilic Oil
What The Heck Is Cleansing Oil,
And Why Is Everyone Obsessed With It?
When the cleansing oil craze first took off, we were skeptical about slathering our faces with more a product our skin naturally produces. But we've secretly obsessed over having clear skin like the women we've met who swear by the face cleansing method.
Still there are plenty of questions we have: What exactly makes cleansing oil just as good or even better for your skin than regular bar soap? Can people who have oily skin use the product? Why doesn't the oil clog our pores?
We asked three skincare experts to help us sort out the hype.
Here's what we learned.
Cleansing oil uses the "good oils" in your skin to remove the "bad oils."
No matter the skin type, cleansing oil mixes with the preexisting oils already on your face, according to cosmetic dermatologic surgeon, Dr. Ariel Ostad. "Some of these oils can either be naturally produced sebum or those from makeup and other products. When you rinse it all off, the 'good oil' takes those 'bad oils' and dirt along with it," he told HuffPost Style.
When massaged into the skin, oils in the cleanser bind to surface impurities [pulling out dirt without clogging pores] and allow them to be comfortably rinsed away leaving the skin clean, soft and hydrated, explained Dr. Diane Walder, a Miami-based cosmetic dermatologist. So, cleansing oil does not sink into your pores since it works to remove impurities and then gets washed away.
Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa aesthetician Kayla Causey believes the oil cleansing method is a win/win situation. "A lot of oil-free cleansers strip our skin of natural oils, leaving it unbalanced and causing it to produce more oil to rebalance it. Excess production equals more problematic skin. Oil cleansers keep the skin's natural pH balance, and prevents it from having a production overload. Plus, essential oils are naturally antibacterial," said Causey.
Oil cleansers contain antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients that also improve the texture and appearance of your skin.
"There are a variety of cleaning oil formulations that contain active ingredients to address specific skin concerns-- dryness, dullness, acne, anti-aging-- and thus may be used to cleanse and improve all skin types," said Dr. Walder.
Depending on the product and the effects desired, cleansing oils usually contain a mixture of botanical oils (olive, sunflower, sesame, safflower, almond, grape seed), extracts (green tea, jasmine) and/or vitamins (vitamin E and C).
Dr. Ostad recommends cleansing oils with botanical amino acids to patients with oily skin to gently remove the excess sebum. Those with dry skin can use most oils, according to the medical expert, as their skin needs its hydration factors the most. Combination skin will receive the best benefits from safflower oil because it is capable of both cleansing and hydrating. And finally, those with sensitive skin should go for a soothing formula of olive oil to prevent skin irritation.
The question of whether cleansing oils are helpful and/or safe for those with acne-prone skin has been a matter of much discussion, Dr. Walder told HuffPost Style. Because acne encompasses oil production, bacterial overgrowth and inflammation, she prefers cleansers with non-pore clogging oil-like ingredients such as glycerin and/or silicone.
Baby Oil is a great make up remover, but it's not an effective cleansing oil.
Baby oil contains mineral oil, lanolin and fragrance whereas cleansing oils contain mostly botanical oils, extracts and vitamins, according to Dr. Walder. "Some cleansing oils may contain mineral oil and/or fragrances, so there are some similarities between the ingredients in baby oil and cleaning oils," she said.
"On one end, baby oil locks in moisture, but at the same time it inhibits the skin's natural ability to breathe and can block pores", said Causey. This makes it not such an ideal cleanser when trying to wash away dirt and debris.
To break the tie, our experts recommend cleansing oil because it removes impurities while maintaining moisture without harming the skin's barrier.
Source: Dana Oliver, Style & Beauty Updated September 1, 2015
NEW January 2020: Introducing from California, the incredibly versatile "outside-of-the-box" skincare line, TUEL
Tuel took hydrophilic cleansing oil to an entirely new level by harnessing nature and cold pressed ingredients to create 5 different formulas for ALL skin types (including oily & acne & break out prone skin) as Step 1 followed by Step 2, an herbal toner, to dissolve and wash away all of the "debris" from your face.
Welcome to the highly innovative process of Deep Pore Cleansing Duo and choose or consult for the best duo for your skin type.
In 1979, Tuel Skincare was created by Eva Friederichs based on the belief that good skin care contains only the best that nature has to offer. She formulated products with high concentrations of plant extracts, active botanicals, and minerals rich in potent antioxidants and vitamins in order to feed your skin from the outside in.
Today, Tuel Skincare is owned by Eva’s daughters, Lisa and Lori Nestore, who are both licensed cosmetologists. Their mission is to help everyone —of all ages, genders, skin types, and ethnicities — get the best skin of their lives.
Rescue Deep Pore Cleansing Duo is specifically formulated for mature skin and features anti-aging botanicals like horsetail, rosewood, and carrot seed. These extracts stimulate cell rejuvenation, support firmness, and promote skin elasticity.
Detox Deep Pore Cleansing Duo is specifically formulated for acne-prone skin and is packed with antibacterial botanicals like tea tree, golden rod, and mistletoe that help clear existing blemishes and prevent new ones from forming.
Calm Deep Pore Cleansing Duo is specifically formulated for reactive skin and contains anti-inflammatory botanicals like chamomile, marigold, and green tea that relieve irritation, balance skin pH, and calm redness.
***(Additional Skin Type Cleansing Duos are Available. See Tuel Website, in addition to my Signature Facials, The Tuel Experience pages for further information!)*** (Click Here)
Clear It Blemish Control Gel targets bacteria and helps regulate oil production without drying out or damaging healthy skin. C Power Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum brightens, fights aging, gently exfoliates, and protects. Power Peel Refining Glycolic Acid Gel dissolves dead skin and build-up in order to reveal brighter, fresher, more radiant skin.
Source: Derm Review
And now..... how about seeing some results from hydrophilic cleansing on four example skin types:
32 years old, blemishes and fine wrinkles on face,
moderate sun damage. Combination skin.
55 years old, tired and stressed skin, with areas of dryness.
22 years old, very oily skin which became more oily throughout the day. Prior products made issues worse.
26 years old, uneven skin tone and rough texture, very sensitive skin prone to breakouts.
Source: The Oil Cleansing Method: A Beginner's Guide, by Ananya Banerjee
Microdermabrasion Or Ultrasonic Exfoliation – Which Is Better?
Why are Ultrasonic Facials simply Fabulous?
Ultrasonic Facial: Regeneration
It’s an exciting yet simple and powerfully effective tool to rejuvenate your skin. Ultrasound has been widely used around the world in medical applications and is now available for state of the art skincare treatments. Ultrasound uses the cutting-edge technology of very high speed, low-frequency sound waves that radiate invisible micro vibrations deep within cells, helping stimulate the skin’s natural repair mechanisms in distinct ways. But what does that mean for you? In short, it means Ultrasound is superior at cleansing, exfoliating, product infusion restoring elasticity, clearing of pigmentation problems & dramatically improves texture and smoothness...all without using chemicals, dangerous acids or other harsh abrasives.
But that is not all. Here are just some other important benefits of Ultrasonic treatments in skin rejuvenation:
- loosens and removes oil, dirt and cellular debris from follicles for cleaner, healthier skin
- reduces puffiness and helps firm the skin
- pain free, gentle and completely non-invasive
- treats gently the most sensitive skin
- restores skin to a smooth, youthful glow and maintained with regular treatments
- harmlessly exfoliates the top layer of the skin for a clearer, healthier complexion without causing redness or irritation associated with standard microdermabrasion
- improves blood circulation and skin elasticity
- helps remove oxidized waste material from the skin which in turn..
- increases cell regeneration
- soothes inflammation and speeds wound healing
- increases moisture retention
- improves acneic skin and scarring conditions
- reduces pore size
- penetrates skin care products more deeply into the skin where they are required to affect change ......and too many others to list
Want more information? Then let’s consider the main phases of Ultrasonic Facials:
*** Exfoliation - The Exfoliation Phase removes 20% to 50% of the "stratum corneum" — the outer layer of the skin that we continuously shed. Water is applied and then the hand instrument, similar to a small spatula, is stroked over the skin. Ultrasonic vibrations spin the water molecules at high frequency causing cavitation — that is a brief phase change in the water molecule. Cavitation gently removes the dead surface skin cells and cleans out follicles without irritation and inflammation associated with other mechanical methods.
*** Infusion - This is one of the best features. Normally, large molecules cannot penetrate the skin to provide the deep medication that skin often needs to maintain health. But ultrasound makes that penetration possible — the process is called "sonophoresis." More exciting still is because of the small molecular size of the active in the line, 302 skincare products, when used in conjunction with Ultrasonic treatments, prove an especially powerful combination for skin health and rejuvenation. Typically, a serum is penetrated into the skin to provide deep healing and protection to skin cells. Your skincare specialist will discuss with you any other products specific to your skin type that you may need. These are applied liberally to the skin and then the hand instrument is lightly stroked over your skin. The ultrasound frequency opens minute pathways to allow the product to penetrate deeply into your skin, for better, more long-lasting results.
*** Micro Massage Therapy - This phase normalizes the skin with a very mild electrical current — a medically proven technique to restore individual cells' natural electrical charge. The paddle is lightly stroked over the face and throat creating a slight pulsing and warming on the face. When a cell has been damaged due to environmental causes, like overexposure to the sun or aging, the cell's electrical current is adversely affected. As a result, waste products build up in the cell, restricting the flow of nutrients required to maintain its health. This condition makes it difficult for cells to heal from damage and to regenerate. The micro massage phase helps normalize the electric current within the cells and promotes healing, cell regeneration and resiliency. Thus, new life is literally massaged into tired, injured and aging skin.
Fine Lines & Wrinkles
Ultrasound helps stimulate and promote collagen and elastin production for more youthful skin. It also helps with hydration. The "plumping" of the skin fills out fine lines and wrinkles.
The Final Result - When used regularly along with a quality skincare home program, your skin will be smoother, healthier and younger looking. Who isn’t interested in that?
As a tool for rejuvenation, ultrasound is powerful. Simple and effective. It will give you the immediate result without using harmful chemicals exfoliates and continue its effects for months after applications.
Source: Essence of Beauty, Ottawa, Ontario
What does it mean to be "Natural" or "Organic" ?
Each of these is worthy of a long discussion, but here are the short answers:
1.) There is, however, no actual definition of natural according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
2.) Natural skin care is the care of the skin (the largest organ of the body) using naturally-derived ingredients (such as botanicals extracts, roots, essential oils and flowers) combined with naturally occurring carrier agents, surfactants, humectants and emulsifiers. The classic definition of natural skin care is based on using botanically sourced ingredients currently existing in or formed by nature, without the use of synthetic chemicals, and manufactured in such a way to preserve the integrity of the ingredients. We strive to be as natural as possible, but to be all-natural is virtually impossible.
3.) We do not use animal derived ingredients.
4.) There are no legally defined parameters for certifying cosmetics as being organic. The whole concept is fraught with issues. Cosmetic ingredients are not like food, so trying to apply food based standards are problematic. We strive to make the most effective products without regard to the concept of organic, or else we would have to forgo the use of such technologically advanced ingredients as Peptides, CoQ10 and Vitamins, which cannot be certified as organic.
5.) Our products are not certified vegan or vegan approved, but they do not contain animal derived ingredients.
6.) All formulas Gluten Free.
7.) No. If our products could be maintained without preservatives or with only natural preservatives, we would do so. It is imperative that products are free of contamination and remain so after the consumer opens and uses the product. Therefore, we will make sure that each formula meets the necessary level of protection.
Source: Private Label Botanical
Personal Approach on Peels:
*** Peels will be offered in the future based on client demand. My main concern with peels is even though the recommended time is 5 days to avoid sun post peel, other studies and articles indicate longer periods of time.
Florida is a difficult territory for chemical facial peels, especially for the active individual who spends much time outdoors, golfing and enjoying the beach, or even just being on the go (we get much unexpected sun exposure while driving in our cars!). Wearing a hat while out on the boat does not protect us from the reflective rays off the water; sunblock is simply not enough protection from direct environmental elements post peel treatment. Offsetting the benefits are post-treatment or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation which is detrimentally enhanced by the raw exposure of the freshly peeled skin to sun exposure. Peels also work best in series, adding another dilemma for many clients.
For client safety, in seeking peels elsewhere, do not accept any peels in which the percentage is not available or noted by the spa. Any peel above 30% is legal ONLY in medical spa settings in the State of Florida, under the directive of a medical doctor.
Q: What products or procedures should I avoid before a chemical peel?
• Two to three days before the peel discontinue using any prescription topicals such as Retin-A, differin or Tazorac, as well as any products containing retinol, alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA), beta hydroxyl acids (BHA) or benzoyl peroxide.
Chemical peels should be avoided if any of the following conditions are present:
• Accutane use within the last year
• Allergies to aspirin
• Patients with Vitiligo
My current facials are high powered for deep exfoliation, effective product penetration for maximal treatments (with UltraSonic technology), and avoid downtime to accommodate the lifestyle of my clients here in Naples, FL, including our visitors who certainly want to take full advantage of our sunshine and hopefully use sunblock regardless!